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Posts from November 2007

November 30, 2007

Adventures of Mr.Behi; 3 Years on

End of November always brings the sweet memory of that day back in 2004 when this blog was born. I had no idea that the name Adventures of Mr.Behi would so truly come true with the diversity of experiences I had, places I visited and people I met. So many friends I made through the blog who shared the passion and still do. I remember when I was actually three years old myself, my parents through a big party with a big "B" shape cake. I wish I could have a party of all my blog friends and readers and invite all of you. Or perhaps this post is the party...imagine the 30 years birthday of this blog...I hope you would still be a visitor because I am sure I will still be blogging :) clumsy and infrequent sometimes, lazy and out of date this blog becomes once in a while but it always comes back :)

Look at the archive sometimes...here

T.I.A

Things went rather unusual during past month of our vacation in Iran. The vacation has become longer than expected without us asking for it. Our lives are indeed full of surprises! But not surprisingly, we meet most of the share from our traveling in and out of Iran. It was November 11th when government of Libya put together a new passport regulation out of the blue that any individual coming back to the country must have the Arabic translation of their passport be made and stamped inside the passport. This new rule was apparently applied over night without anyone knowing it. I read lots of news about charter planes of tourists sent back and people got deported from Libyan boarders. Libya made a suicide decision for its tourism industry in this time of year when it is best to visit the country. Would someone care?

Why Libya is asking for Arabic translation in the passports? I have no idea!! That looks like one more odd thing about Libya one shall add to the list of many that happened before. The thing is that the visas that Libya issues are in Arabic so why the information in the visa wouldn’t be enough? I read in some blogs that in the first few days after this was applied, the passport control officers were also obscuring the English page of Libyan passport of those nationals who were traveling out and made many of their citizens stranded in airports around the world. This part of the new law was apparently canceled after a few days.

T.I.A: This Is Africa! It also stands for Transient Ischaemic Attack, a problem in human nervous systems in which part of the brain suddenly and briefly fails to function properly because it is temporarily deprived of oxygen by blockage of its blood supply. (Disclaimer: No intention to associate the continent with the lack of Oxygen that I am sure plenty is available maybe some nations need to inhale a bit more or free the blockage).

For us vacationing inside Iran, this brought a new challenge. The Libyan embassy had no idea how to implement this and finally left us on our own. I am getting help from the Iranian foreign office to “invent” a local procedure to get the translation stamped in the passports! For them and the passport department of the Police, passports have standard templates according to international regulations. Iranian passports are become perfectly electronic in the past few years. You fill a form and put your national ID and your unique10 digit post code and receive your passport in the same week by post…no hassle! So no wonder why they refuse to cook another version for only a bunch of Iranians who go to Libya!

November 15, 2007

The Cliff

We are with Mrs.Behi’s parents in a small city east of Tehran. Mrs.Behi herself got a little sick after we arrived and is resting. That is very unfortunate as we planned to do some outdoor stuff during this lovely and relatively warm autumn here. Yesterday, I had to buy something and used the opportunity to walk a little bit around the town.

It was only near noontime when the sun started to drag herself up from the big limestone cliff on the west. Streams of light started slowly to find their way to touch the little stream of water flowing underneath the cliff. The stream later joins the small river, crossing the city in the south along the major street of the little town, further down towards the east it was already a sunny day.
Shrine
The city was filled with humble houses and rows of one-two story shops packed with everything you may need. Narrow allies branching from the main street host houses surrounded by tall trees. This is fall and the city has already been waiting long for its first snowfall. Long tailed leaves dancing down into streams could tell us how they trembled with the touch of the eastern winds. They might have mourned leaving their trees. Their voices cannot be heard but there I was listening to mourning and subbing in a funeral. Three bodies being carried on metal frames covered in black. Victims of a road accident happened the day before. They were carried out from a little shrine on the west end of town where the funeral started, by the foot of the western cliff. Suddenly I felt as if the arrays of light that were climbing the side of the cliff to shine the shrine stopped and waited, leaving the black covers on the bodies to the darkest. The men shout “God is great” and the crowed followed as they moved towards the east and then up to the northern hills beyond the main road where the cemetery lies facing the sun, away from the cliff and the cold of the long shadow.
I left the crowed and surprisingly, found the cliff more welcoming as I got close. A small river flooding a small patch of woods full of tall trees. Land covered by autumn leaves or water and I later realized that the leaves were camouflaging the water…my sucks were wet.
Stream
The arrays of the sunlight started again, sending their signs from the edges of the cliff, black and white birds flying with their long black tails, a good contrast against the lime cliff. The light was slowly concurring the tip of the trees. The first ones escaped from a saddle up on the ridge of the cliff and awarded a relatively small tree with the gift of light and made it stand out from the crowed.

Enlightened

Moving further up, a group of workers were paving the road with tarmac. Mixing sand with tar, paving it on the road and pressing it later. A barrel of tar melting on a flame. The workers inhaling the fume thinking probably about a good smell of the food they will earn from their work. I passed them though holding my breath.

Climbing a little hill, now well beyond the lime cliff, I was looking at the giant of Alborz, Damavand mountain well beyond all the limestone mountain ranges standing out like a grey arrow, piercing the Earth from deep beneath.

Damavand I returned home, passed by the woods, the shrine and the cliff, moved down through the noise of the crows and the rush of the crowed and met the horns of the train in the small train station. Up on the bridge over the rails were laying the tankers, passenger wagons and open coal carriages chained together in three lanes. Shadows of the coal carrier wagons reminded me that even something so dark could reflect enough light for the joy of sight.

Coal_wagons

I was on my way back and I saw bars coming off a wall and realized that it does not matter how big or small things are or how tall or short one gets. The light always sees things the same way and the shadows are always as dark as each other no matter who blocks the light.


Shadows

Visiting Iran

It is more than a week since I started a little vacation in Iran. I stayed off-line most of the time enjoying a sweet reunion with family members. It was the longest time outside of Iran, the past 7 months! It was not so long compared to some people who come back after years living abroad but was long enough for me to miss the delicate feeling, the strange sense and the unknown flavour of being in Iran. It was not just about being homesick but a mysterious combination of memories that dragged us to a short vacation back home. Well, add to that the necessity for spending the travel allowance allocated to me for the year 2007 before it gets perished into 2008!

Not much is changed in Iran since the time we left. There is a new bank note of 50,000 Rials is in circulation (around 5.5 US$), a vivid sign of a major concern of the population: “High Inflation”. Fuel usage is now rationalized. The price is still low but there is an allotment for each car and that is controlled via a dedicated smart card. As always, I paid a visit to a major IT mall. I was happily surprised seeing more and more apple products in the shelves, ipods and iphones were everywhere and many shops were selling iMac and MacBooks. None of them are real official resellers I guess but this has been the case for a long time for American products. For ordinary people, there is no such thing as embargo, only that they could earn more if the country was open and I am not sure if many of them realize that.

We are spending most of the time with family and friends yet I am finding a quality time to catch up with some of the books that I left reading and audiobooks that I gathered and did not listen to.

November 03, 2007

Ubuto

You just need to have a little dust on your car to find an approaching African immigrant as soon as you park in business districts of Tripoli. Their desperate eyes scan the streets looking for someone with a dirty car in hope for a little money in return for a quick car wash. Local riders are indeed regular customers for these fellows and apparently riding a clean car is an important matter for those who own one. Even when you drive by these guys, they wave you with a tissue in hand offering their service. With five Libyan Dinars, they give a good wash to most cars and they apparently have good business despite the availability of automatic car wash machines in major gas pumps.

It is kind of hard for me looking at their struggle in making the living. Almost all of them are immigrants from sub-Saharan Africa. Nigeria, Gabon, Burkina Faso,... are the names you hear when you ask about their nationality. They left the green equatorial countries, passed through the emptiness of Saharan desert to find a living by the Mediterranean coast or maybe they aimed for Europe but could not make it. Ubuto is one of them. He is from Burkina Faso and speaks three languages (French, English and Arabic). He lives in a hut in an empty land close to Zat Al Imad Towers, famous landmarks of Tripoli that host offices of almost all major international oil companies who work in Libya. Ubuto has two used paint buckets that he fills with water and a set of tissues to wash cars. He also helps when you try to find an empty parking space to have the upper hand over others in getting a cleaning job.

"Good morning Sir, How are you today?", He asks when taking his hat off. After a long look at my car he normally offers a car wash and when I nod for acceptance, he marks my car by drawing a cross on the dusty windshield, marking his territory against his competitors. He knows well how to provide his service...his understanding of client care is much better than the perception of some waiters in expensive restaurants of Tripoli who treat you as if you are the same as the empty chair beside you! With a little chance, he could have a much better job considering his language skills but being an illegal immigrant closes that door for him.

If I was a journalist, I could spend my time writing a report about life of Ubuto and his friends, the way they see life and future. I am already amazed to see these guys queuing in front of banks to transfer money to their home countries. It is the hardest thing to go to the cash machine and get money when they are watching you getting multiple times their monthly income by pressing a few bottoms.

I can do little but accepting more regular car washes before the car gets really dirty. Normally when strong winds blow in Tripoli, I get frustrated with the dust in my eyes and the car gets dirty all of a sudden. I will remember that there are some people in the same city smiling when the wind blows and cheering it to stay strong, hoping for a good day with many dirty cars and a promising business...

I believe in


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